When Punjabi musician-actor Diljit Dosanjh made his debut on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, he engineered a look rooted in tradition, but one which was garnished with a luxurious blend of ultra-chic brands that spoke to a global audience. Diljit’s ensemble was a harmonious fusion of traditional Punjabi garments and contemporary fashion elements, serving as a testament to his unique style that captures the essence of the global desi rockstar.
Diljit’s choice of attire for his appearance included an ivory, sequined kurta-chaadra, a traditional folk dress tailored by ace couturier Raghavendra Rathore. Complementing this outfit were a pair of high-ankle Air Jordans and an Audemars Piguet watch, customized with a diamond-studded dial, straps, and bezel by Jain The Jeweler. This fusion of elements represents Diljit’s capacity to seamlessly blend his roots with modernity.
“Our teams connected over a long-distance Zoom call in March this year, so we had nearly a month to execute the project as Diljit’s tour began in April,” shared Rathore. The endeavor required meticulous attention to proportions, colors, and textures, which posed unique challenges given the virtual nature of their collaboration. Despite these complexities, the team succeeded in creating an ensemble that was both aesthetically pleasing and timely.
Rathore emphasized the importance of aligning the outfits with the turlay wali pagg, the fan-pleated turban that Diljit often wears. “I was so impressed with how humble he is and his strong values that align with our brand. He stressed that the clothes needed to be simple, stylish, and rooted in heritage,” Rathore noted. The outfits were designed with shimmer and sophistication, taking into account the different cities where Diljit would perform.
The kurta and tehmat, tamba, or chaadra form the quintessential folk dress for men in Punjab’s hinterland and have been immortalized by Punjabi music legends like Lal Chand Yamla Jatt, Kuldeep Manak, Gurdaas Maan, and Surjit Bindrakhia. This traditional attire serves as the foundation for Diljit’s on-stage fashion, yet he incorporates a modern twist that resonates with the global audience. The traditional embroidered vest, for instance, finds new expression in a harness, a modern accessory popularized by actors like Timothée Chalamet and Michael B. Jordan.
. Similarly, the traditional Punjabi jutti has been replaced with contemporary sneakers, which became a key reference point for Rathore in determining the colors for Diljit’s outfits.
“We focused on the colors of the shoes he likes. When you take a kurta, which traditionally has full sleeves, and shorten it, the look becomes super contemporary,” Rathore explained. The biggest challenge was to create an embroidered kurta that could withstand three to four hours of performance while remaining comfortable and itch-free. “When you embroider something on a thin fabric, you risk causing irritation. We used a lighter texture for the base embroidery layer and added sequins and shimmer on top to ensure it wasn’t too pokey on the inside,” Rathore detailed.
Fabrics used for creating Diljit’s bespoke looks included cotton blends, silks, and satins. “The embroideries were thoughtfully designed, drawing inspiration from traditional techniques like kantha, phulkari, and zardozi to create motifs and patterns that appeal to a global stage. Unique handcrafted textures provided a timeless look and feel to the overall outfits,” Rathore shared.
This project marked Rathore’s first foray into designing clothes for an on-stage performer. Having previously designed for films like Eklavya and Khoobsurat, Rathore understood that the approach required for a musician of Diljit’s stature is different. “A movie is pegged for a particular segment. In contrast, a musician like Diljit cuts across every segment of society. The concept has to revolve around him, and the brand must function as a provider,” Rathore explained.
Though Diljit may not have an extensive team of stylists, his sartorial choices orchestrate a symphony of originality. His style strikes a chord that defines the global desi rockstar, blending tradition and modernity in a way that resonates with audiences around the world.
