Nailing the look is among the many critical steps when making a biopic. It becomes all the more important when you’re telling the story of the former Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi. Sheetal Sharma, who serves as Emergency’s costume designer, says staying true to the subject was actor-director Kangana Ranaut’s top priority. “Kangana [found] references from archival videos of Mrs Gandhi’s speeches, newspaper articles, and albums from the Parliament,” he starts.
The journey of replicating the iconic sarees of Indira Gandhi began much before the camera started rolling. Ranaut, who also directed the movie, was steadfast in her vision to ensure an authentic portrayal of the late Prime Minister. The film, titled “Emergency,” also showcases the talents of Anupam Kher as Jayaprakash Narayan and Shreyas Talpade as Atal Bihari Vajpayee. It spans across three decades, from the 1960s to the 1980s, with a significant focus on the controversial period when Gandhi declared the Emergency in 1975.
Ranaut’s brief for her costume designer was concise yet challenging: the audience should be convinced that she is a spitting image of the late PM. Sharma elaborates, “In The Crown, [Elizabeth Debicki] looked and behaved almost like Lady Diana. Kangana too wanted to look like Indira Gandhi down to the minutest details—her clothes, prints, fabric, and glasses. We replicated what she wore during the Shimla Agreement signing, or when taking the oath as the PM. We also [incorporated] the way she draped her shawl, wore French chiffon sarees and khadi blouses, and her famous hairstyle.”
Attaining this level of authenticity required meticulous research and craftsmanship. For certain iconic looks, the team went beyond sourcing vintage garments. They hired skilled weavers to recreate sarees from scratch, accurately reproducing the fabrics and prints of the originals. One notable example is the saree worn by Indira Gandhi on the day of her assassination, which is preserved in the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum in Delhi. Sharma narrates, “We took pictures and replicated it with precision. She wore a stunning white silk saree at Sanjay Gandhi’s wedding. Kangana made sure the other characters also looked exactly like the real [politicians].”
The process of design was not just about visual imitation but also capturing the essence and aura of Indira Gandhi. The team paid close attention to her mannerisms, her posture, and even her eyewear.
. Historical accuracy was paramount, and the costume department left no stone unturned. Sharma continues, “We had to recreate her iconic style—the way she draped her shawl, her French chiffon sarees, her khadi blouses, and of course, her distinctive hairstyle. Every element had to align with the period we were depicting.”
To complement the high standards set for the lead actress’s wardrobe, similar care was extended to the costumes of other major characters. The depiction of eminent personalities like Jayaprakash Narayan and Atal Bihari Vajpayee required equally detailed attention. Sharma shares, “The aim was to build a believable world. Anupam Kher and Shreyas Talpade needed to look the parts they were playing. Therefore, their costumes, accessories—even their body language—had to be just right.”
The level of detail and authenticity didn’t just stop at clothing. Personal items such as glasses, shoes, and even the fabrics used in upholstery and curtains had to mirror the era accurately. Sharma states, “We visited numerous archives and studied countless photographs and videos. The idea was to create a seamless visual journey that would transport the audience back in time.”
For the team, this project was not just about creating a wardrobe but also an immersive experience. Ranaut’s commitment to the role extended beyond acting and directing. Her involvement in the costume design process was hands-on. Sharma adds, “Kangana would often join us in research sessions. Her keen eye for detail and insistence on authenticity pushed us to explore further and refine our work. It was a collaborative effort, and her dedication to the project was inspirational.”
Capturing the life and times of a figure as prominent as Indira Gandhi is no small feat. The efforts of Kangana Ranaut and Sheetal Sharma reflect a deep respect for the historical narrative and a commitment to authenticity. The audience is set to witness a portrayal that is as accurate and respectful as it is dramatic and engaging, promising a visual treat that painstakingly mirrors the rich historical context of Indira Gandhi’s era.
