The vibrant city of Kolkata, a confluence of history, art, and culture, continues to hold its place as a key player in the celebration of jazz music, especially with its iconic venue, Trincas, located in the bustling hub of Park Street. If one were to explore the ‘Music@Trincas’ section on the official website of this renowned Kolkata establishment, they would discover a rich tapestry of anecdotes that evoke the essence of an era when the city merged culinary delights with musical enchantment.
An enchanting story from 1963 brings to life the warm atmosphere of a bustling Park Street afternoon. The scene is set with Little Willie Walters, a young boy ensconced at the popular Magnolia, delighting in his ice cream while a trio of jazz musicians perform soul-stirring melodies. The picture evolves when a stunning woman, exuding a Hollywood-like allure, enters the room in a fish-tailed dress, catching Willie’s attention with a captivating wink. In that mesmerising instant, a connection forms between jazz and Trincas in Willie’s young mind, even though he is unaware of it then. This magical moment would become a cornerstone in his memories.
The memory of that day stayed with Willie Walters, who grew up to become a prominent name in Kolkata’s jazz scene. As an accomplished bassist, Willie was passionate about exploring new musical landscapes. Before his passing earlier this year, he initiated a jazz renaissance at Trincas with the formation of The Willie Walters Quartet in 2022. This ensemble brought the spirit of jazz alive during weekend afternoons, creating an oasis of melodies every Saturday and Sunday from 1 pm to 3 pm. Anand Puri, a third-generation restaurateur who has led Trincas since 2019, reflects on Willie’s impact. Anand’s parents had transformed the establishment from its origins as a tearoom and bakery, established in 1927, into a vibrant restaurant featuring live music since they took over in 1959. Anand credits Willie with moulding a group of musicians, many inexperienced in jazz, into a cohesive ensemble that resonated with audiences.
The revival of jazz at Trincas, while boosting occupancy by almost 100% on traditionally slow weekend lunch service, underscores the genre’s ability to draw people in. Anand explains, “We focused on familiar jazz standards, maintaining a light vibe that let the audience experience the music without feeling overwhelmed.
. By doing so, we brought jazz back to Kolkata, making every Sunday afternoon memorable.”
Across India, the allure of jazz is becoming increasingly palpable. More restaurants and bars are embracing jazz for its sophisticated ambiance and universal appeal, even though jazz nights remain relatively rare. During my last visit home in April, I found myself at AMPM Kolkata, a distinguished cocktail bar that has hosted various music events. Though not dedicated specifically to jazz, AMPM impressed with the credibility brought to its music programme by Paddy [Pradyumna Manot], its music director. My friend Mahima Awasthy, a Kolkata resident and a regular at AMPM, shares that “jazz nights attract a wide demographic, making it perfect for the intimate setting of the cocktail bar.”
The Piano Man Jazz Club, which opened in New Delhi in 2015 and expanded to Gurugram in 2019, remains one of India’s few dedicated spaces for jazz. Established by Arjun Sagar Gupta, a classically trained pianist and entrepreneur, the club focuses on raising awareness and accessibility to diverse music genres. Arjun notes the challenges of sustaining a jazz club, underlining that music must remain central rather than relegated to a mere background element. To expand sustainably, The Piano Man ventured into larger venues in Gurugram and Saket to overcome the limitations faced by its smaller original location.
At The Leela Palace’s Kyoto speakeasy, ZLB23 in Bengaluru, jazz forms an intrinsic part of the musical offering, incorporating styles like Bebop, Latin, Soul, and Carnatic Jazz. Madhav Sehgal of The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts elaborates that their curated selection of international musicians, including MaMoGi, enhances the venue’s eclectic ambiance through their fusion of progressive rock and jazz elements.
Behind the jazz renaissance in India, seasoned vocalists like Sonia Teresa Saigal and Parvati M Krishnan share insights. Sonia discusses the authenticity essential in true jazz performances and how a lack of investment in genuine talent by some venues can stifle the genre’s growth. Parvati highlights the dual worlds of jazz appreciation — from those who seek the social prestige of jazz settings to devoted enthusiasts who truly cherish the music.
As jazz weaves its magic across generations, from the iconic memories at Trincas to the emerging scenes in Bengaluru and beyond, it is clear that this timeless genre continues to captivate and evolve, inviting all to experience its soulful rhythms.
