When Punjabi musician-actor Diljit Dosanjh made his much-anticipated debut on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, he unveiled a sartorial masterpiece that was deeply rooted in tradition yet seamlessly intertwined with ultra-chic global brands. This striking blend eloquently spoke to an international audience, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fashion.
Diljit’s ensemble for the evening was a visual narrative of fusion fashion. The outfit featured a meticulously designed turlay wali pagg (a pleated-fan turban) and kurta-chaadra (the Punjabi version of a dhoti or lungi), both crafted by renowned couturier Raghavendra Rathore. The ivory, sequined folk dress was part of an 18-piece collection specially tailored for Diljit’s Dil-luminati North America tour. Complementing this traditional attire were modern accessories, including an Audemars Piguet watch customized with a diamond-studded dial, straps, and bezel by Jain The Jeweler, and a pair of high-ankle Air Jordan sneakers.
“Our teams connected over a long-distance Zoom call in March this year, giving us nearly a month to complete the project as Diljit’s tour began in April,” shares Rathore, emphasizing the challenges of achieving precise proportions, colors, and textures in a virtual setup. “We managed to finalize the sketches with swatches and fabrics in one go. It was a priority project, and ensuring timely shipping was crucial.”
Rathore revealed that there was a specific mandate for the collection: everything had to complement the turlay wali pagg. “I was captivated by Deljit’s humility and the values he upheld, which resonate deeply with our brand. He wanted the clothes to be simple yet stylish and rooted in heritage,” Rathore says. Diljit emphasized the need for a shimmer element, designed keeping in mind the diverse cities he would perform in.
Diljit’s stage presence was enhanced by the fitted kurta and tehmat, traditionally part of Punjab’s folk dress and historically worn by legends of Punjabi music like Lal Chand Yamla Jatt, Kuldeep Manak, Gurdaas Maan, and Surjit Bindrakhia. However, Diljit has modernized this look, integrating elements from Western fashion, especially those popularized by the Punjabi music diaspora of the late ‘90s and early 2000s, such as Sukhbir and Jazzy B. Notably, the embroidered vest traditionally associated with the kurta-chaadra has been replaced with a contemporary harness—similar to those worn by Timothée Chalamet, Michael B. Jordan, and the late Chadwick Boseman.
. Additionally, the traditional Punjabi jutti has been swapped for modern sneakers, which served as a color-reference point for Rathore while designing Diljit’s outfits.
Fabrics such as cotton blends, silks, and satins were used to create Diljit’s bespoke looks. “The focus was on aligning the colors with the shoes Diljit preferred. Traditionally, a kurta features full sleeves, but shortening it and tightening certain areas created a super contemporary look,” Rathore elaborates. One of the paramount challenges was crafting an embroidered kurta that could endure three to four hours of performance and dancing while remaining comfortable and itch-free. “Embroidery on a thin kurta fabric can be tricky as the threads can cause irritation. We used a lighter embroidered layer with sequins and shimmer on top to avoid discomfort,” Rathore explains.
To elevate the aesthetic appeal, Rathore’s team incorporated various traditional embroidery techniques, including kantha, phulkari, and zardozi, ensuring the motifs and patterns had a contemporary flair suitable for a global stage. Handcrafted textures were meticulously integrated to achieve a timeless look and feel. “We carefully thought through the embroideries, taking inspiration from these techniques to create a unique fabric base,” Rathore adds.
Remarkably, this project marked Rathore’s first foray into designing on-stage outfits. His previous works include costumes for films like Eklavya and Khoobsurat. “Designing for a musician of Diljit’s stature is different from films, as he connects with a broad audience. The concept centers around him, with the brand functioning as a facilitator,” Rathore explains.
Despite potentially lacking an extensive team of stylists, Diljit Dosanjh orchestrates a sartorial symphony that echoes originality and creativity. His style statement epitomizes the notion of a global desi rockstar, resonating with audiences worldwide and defining a new era of fashion fusion.
